But how would you hold you hand and input the moves on the buttons to the right? I believe Toodles had a point in doing his test with the circuits separated. Are you referring to this article? http://www.teyah.net/sticklag/results.html, And finally, the raw testing data can be viewed & downloaded from here: You might also try posting over on r/Fighters. We appreciate all feedback. Do newer black Q4s still contain the fast style PCB? But now: the Fighting Edge is back for PlayStation 4 — and it looks better than ever. Are you referring to this article? I've had the exact same experience as you, even right down to returning a madcatz pad and failing diagonal/slipping rotation on the fc4. I’m now working on testing PS4 sticks. Where can you buy this? I tried changing the angle on it initially, but preferred the original orientation. The "claw" wasn't possbile on the DS3 due to the s.punch and s.kick was on the triggers to the back :/. Feel free to ask additional questions if I missed something. I don’t mean to downplay the amount of time you have put in. I have been using the Dualshock 3 and got tired of it so I just purchased my first stick, the Madcatz alpha. Triggers: So my main gripe with this controller is that the L1/R1 buttons are SUPER small. The effect of additional variance, the existence of which I’m seriously questioning at this point, would be closer to 0.01 ms than it would be to 1 ms. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled, UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2, How much does your arcade stick lag? Overall, I think this new FC0 will be my main pad for SFV (and any other fighting game). Street Fighter video game series Following up on the release of the Real Arcade Pro TEKKEN 7 Edition for PlayStation 4 and Xbox One, HORI has created a new version of that fightstick, but without the Tekken branding. Game : STREET FIGHTER V ARCADE EDITION (JPN Ver.03.003 for PlayStation 4 ) 1P(left) : HORI FIGHTING EDGE for PS4(v1.16) 2P(right) :HORI Real … This would require some serious extra resistance by the extra equipment in between the button and PCBs (in my case, extra wire…) as well as requiring the signal to hit one PCB before it hits the other, where in reality it hits both at the same time. Dolopeko's review mirrors my feelings on it. And regarding customization — like the RAP series, this stick is easy to get into and mess around with as you feel inclined. The Fighting EDGE is a landmark in design and functionality. For some reason it feels super-responsive, like DS4-levels of responsiveness to inputs. The cheap stick I used to recommend is the Hori Fighting Stick Mini 3 but they're hard to find now - the one showing up on Amazon is $80 but I bought mine for half that when they were launched. HORI’s Fighting Edge sticks are already well-known in the community, and much loved for their clean, classy design. HORI's proprietary HAYABUSA stick lever has been engineered to reduce input … This version of the Fighting Edge also includes a headset jack, like other recent HORI models. The only difference I've noticed, and isn't ideal but hardly a dealbreaker, is that both the FC0 D-Pad and Buttons give slightly more resistance than the FC4. Toodles himself actually performed both the signal splitting test and the dual wiring test and came up with similar results under both methods. To access all of the top panel bolts, you need to also remove additional side panels. That is not normal usage of the PCB. http://shoryuken.com/2011/12/12/srklabs-in-depth-review-eightarc-fusion-ps3pcxbox360-joystick/. My only complaints are that I wish it was a tad bigger, but it's a very minor issue. Just wondering, did you ever change the direction on the original DPad? Why, Hori? These buttons are standard-sized and the joystick bracket is accommodating for replacement of other parts from other manufacturers, if you want to rock the Fighting Edge case with customized parts. To be honest I have done the same type of test and it was my first instinct to just wire in a button, but I can see why that wouldn’t be the best idea. The Eightarc Fusion, or at the very least the early models of it, also used this same PCB. Street Fighterin' since there was only a "II" in the title. One warning about ordering from play asia., make sure to get the express shipping. If I could make any suggestion... Sega needs to embrace the FGC with their Sega Saturn D-Pad. I don’t know if the amount will be meaningful or what will happen at all if I wire two controller PCB signals together, and I definitely don’t know if the output is identical to normal usage. You can still reassign buttons as desired. Which I’m willing to accept and expect to be ironed out after 1,000 trials using the same method. I did see some on Amazon that looked like they would deliver in 2 days, but they were a bit more expensive. However, I noticed some weird behavior with it after extended use -- my diagonal directions were being dropped intermittedly, and eventually the rotating d-pad would come loose and rotate during play, causing missed inputs. I’ll be updating it as our group comes across more sticks. To get in, you need to remove the bottom panel(s). If anyone has a recently purchased Q4RAF Black and can snap a picture of the PCB, it would be really helpful. I also wish the bumper buttons were the same size. Thank goodness! The economy shipping option took over a goddamn month to arrive, 5 weeks. 1 year ago. Are you suggesting that having both PCBs wired together will skew the results towards one PCB over the other, in meaningful amounts (+1 ms) on a consistent basis over 1,000 trials? This could be very useful information. This rule includes posts solely related to hardware. So do you hold that one and input the moves with the thumb or use a "claw grip" and use several fingers? Otherwise, I'd probably stick with the FC4 with its slightly softer buttons. System requirement windows 10/8/8.1/7, USB port. The Hori site only shows the FC4. It still feels comfortable. This protects the case from overzealous modders, but prevents the bolts from holding the top panel completely flush to the base, allowing it to slide around nearly 1 mm in all directions; this might not sound like much — until you really get into the game and notice the metal plate and bolts rattling around from the force of your inputs. When I started using it I thought, wow, the FC4 must be really amazing if this is the old version. The difference isn't anything noticeable, though. So the behavior is not necessarily the same as a normal button activation. I am VERY pleased to say that the d-pad input issues have gone away with the new pad. It runs a little higher in price than the RAP family: that brushed metal elegance will run you $199.99 USD. The issue was the locking mechanism -- after a while the dpad would rotate. Much like the RAP.N, the top panel bolts don’t allow effective access to the interior — even less so, in this model. A new addition (for HORI) is the tournament mode switch, which cuts inputs from the PS button, and the OPTIONS and SHARE buttons. Probably the best pad I've ever used. Officially Licensed by Sony. The sub's mission is to build the fighting game community, harbor a healthy competitive nature, and be welcoming to players and fans alike. I believe the Etokki Omni uses the ‘paewang’ pcb which is the same used in the Datel ArcadePro and a few other sticks. Given how I performed alternate testing to confirm that the real world results of simultaneous button presses are within 0.5 ms of my dual wiring test, I can discount this as a significant issue. Bolts holding down metal top panel don’t hold it flush, allowing it to shift position and rattle. This is different than the FC4 dpad, which had a smooth surface. DIY solutions include adding washers to the bolts to fill the extra space, or using double-sided tape between the top plate and the plastic case. Straight up garbage because of inaccurate input detection, so I wouldn't recommend at all. Seems going halfway between the L1/R1 and L2/R2 for both would be perfect. This PCB is in fact faster than the Toodles Cthulhu PCB as shown in the SRKlabs testing and my testing. Either way, the sticks tested are based on what I’ve got available. I also purchased the MadCatz FightPad Pro, and it is by far the worst D-Pad I've ever used. If you can find one cheap, I've also got it working on SFV with JoyToKey and like the Mayflash one, it should work natively once d-input is patched in. It feels like Hori had this in mind, since they put the buttons closer together. So I don’t see an issue with the way I have done things, unless you have something else I should consider. I have been loving it so far, my only gripe is that it feels "slightly" small in my hands. But I ended up returning that, because I felt the d-pad and buttons were inferior to the Hori. The movement isn’t as bad as the plastic top sheet on the Mad Catz TE2 could be, but it will annoy some players — and frankly makes the Fighting Edge feel a bit lower-quality than it is. I'd like to try one but import prices are a bit much. I wasn't able to order the FC4 (I live in China) so I ordered this one, which I assumed was an older version FC.

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